Across the Pyrenees on red wine and ibuprofen

w3w ///hating.twos.reverses

Back on the trail again and we’re here at the Refugio after walking through and then out of the Ordesa Canyon today.

Spectacular scenery and waterfalls along the way – which were probably more impressive after the storms again last night – and although there are many tourists at the start ☹️, the numbers get less the higher up you go 😊..

And we are high here. There is no road access, everything is delivered by helicopter and the staff walk in (15 days on / 15 days off).

We are camping tonight for our only planned night on the trip – but the National Park rules are we can only put up the tent after 8.30pm. (Seems overly strict but enforced by the Refugio.) Slight funny thing is that we could have rented a tent here – we didn’t know and have been carrying one for 10 days – Neil has been carrying the tent so he does not think this is quite as funny as me.. When we actually put it up though, we couldn’t both get in it – the tent is tiny….

Good atmosphere here at the Refugio, lots of people milling around, chatting, waiting for dinner and then tents. Danish, Spanish, Dutch, French, Germans and 2 from UK – we should seriously consider joining some sort of European cooperation or union with our neighbours, how good would that be ?!

Tomorrow is a big day, a stupid amount of steep descent (2000m), and another 1000m to climb – so will be a long day for sure. Even the Guide book author says this is tough and his timings are generally – and suspiciously – quicker than ours.

We took a bit of a shortcut to start the next stage through the Odessa Canyon otherwise it would be 9 hours long. The climb was easy up to the head of the valley with some beautiful scenery and spectacular water falls. The climb up to the Refugio was as tough as the others but there was no descent this time

Our only night of camping for which I have carried a cheap “festival” tent weighing 1.5kg. Apparently big enough for 2 (for that read 2 midgets that are only 300mm across their chest). It has to be the worst night sleep ever!! And to compound everything we could have hired a tent from the Refugio.

Left the Refugio Goriz this morning which was a hive of activity. Short climb up to the Collata Arrablo Then a steep descent into the valley leading to the obligatory 1000m climb before arriving at the Collata Anisclo. Couldn’t see a path down but noticed the red and white markers snaking their way down a near shear rock and scree face. It was unrelenting for nearly 4 hours and 1200m. Whole day was just over 9 hours walking which is a lot.

So we bought a new one today…

w3w ///polystyrene.swimming.intent

Here in Torla which is the starting point for the famous Ordesa Gorge and where we rejoin the trail tomorrow.

We had a recce this morning and it is spectacular and also a bit daunting as we know we have to climb out of the canyon at the other end – and probably under the full heat of the sun.

Tomorrow night is our only planned camping night – and that is because there is no room at the refuge – so we have a basic tent and mat which we will then ditch as soon as possible.

We do expect we will be out of contact for 3 days or so until we get to the next village.

We thought Torla might be a bit touristy but it’s not – another good find and as an added bonus, we’ve managed to get our washing done 😊

After a few days recovery we set off again tomorrow into the high mountains. We climb up the valley and onto the top of the canyon to the Refugio de Goriz. It looks pretty daunting!!

So we’re still here in Sallent de Gallagio

We had a planned rest day yesterday but have decided not to climb up to the next Refugio today. Whilst that would probably be ok, the next few days are then particularly brutal with no obvious plan B available – and we realise we need a plan B, (and C, D etc !)

When we started this adventure, we weren’t sure how it would develop – the only certain thing is that it would change along the way. So whilst disappointing to miss out a section or so, we are not so surprised and it is not the end of the world – most important we can still enjoy the journey. Quite probably more changes will have to follow as well.

So all being well, we travel to Torla tomorrow and rejoin the trail at the Ordessa canyon on Thursday.

Meanwhile, we had a lovely flat walk around the lake today !

This is really a great little town, we can recommend it !

w3w ///small.estuaries.inboxes

Lovely start to the day – walked up from Candanchu through the valley and seemed to be heading into a Corrie with no possible way up. But there was – and it cut back and forth in spectacular scenery to the lake at the top.

Down hill was brutal hard work though and overall, the day was too long / hard – we couldn’t do all that again tomorrow so we need to rethink our plan…

After an impromptu day off due to weather, we are off again. What we thought would be a reasonably easy day turned out to be really hard work. It was fabulous in the valley and the top of the climb was picturesque. The descent is a real killer!!

w3w ///chapels.redeemer.eater

Storms…. !

Common in the Pyrenees but not this summer and this is the first rain here since May. Whilst the parched grass certainly needs it, not helpful for us and our planned high level hike across to the ski resort at Candanchu..

Here in the refuge, most people are just waiting – hail / rain / thunder / lightning and low cloud, forecast until 1-2pm. Our route today included 2 climbs and 10km above 2000m so we have decided to skip around by taxi – as we won’t otherwise have time to complete the stage. All within the only rules we have set ourselves- to stay safe and enjoy every day 😉

w3w ///format.uptake.documentary

Bit sore and tired this morning – and another relentless climb in the morning – 1200m ascent today. We did see a bearded vulture but were not quick enough to take a picture – David Attenborough would have done better. At the col, the Cuello de lo Foratón, the path just drops down again – ending up at our first Mountain Refugio. (Luckily, or they have been prewarned about the snoring, we have the 8x bedroom to ourselves!)

Update – 2 other guys are with us tonight, not that they will be getting much sleep..