Across the Pyrenees on red wine and ibuprofen

Good walking on day 43 from Refugio de I’lla to Refugio Malniu where we left Andorra returning to Catalunya. Everything was wet this morning after heavy storms yesterday evening and through the night. We were a bit concerned that they would continue through today but we woke to blueish sky and we’re able to make it to Malniu before the rain came. Typical day really, 1000m climb and 1300m descent, we haven’t had much different since we set off and for the first time fatigue is just beginning to tell. We have supposedly left the alpine section of the Pyrenees today but looking across the valley at the next climb they don’t look that much different!!

Not really happy with today’s experience, paths were rubbish, way marking was rubbish and the signs were rubbish. Decided to write to the minister in charge!!

Letter to the higher authority

To: Catalunya Minister responsible for paths, way marking and signs

From: Neil & Martin

Dear sir,

It is with much regret that I find myself having to write to you about the following:

We have just traversed Andorra on the GR 11 and had a wonderful experience with paths way marking and signs (not to mention the excellent Refugio’s). However, after crossing the border into Catalunya we were met with much dismay and disappointment. The way marking was inadequate at best and bordered on dismal which compared to Andorra leaves Catalunya facing an uphill battle to even get parity!! The signs were even worse and were quite often illegible leading us some way off the GR 11 trail causing us to follow cattle trails, having to overcome fallen trees and battle through vegetation and undergrowth.

The disrepair we found on the paths was equally disappointing. Perhaps Catalunya could take a leaf from Andorra’s excellent management of this iconic trail and employ teams to maintain the quality previously experienced. Indeed if the authorities could supply Martin and myself with the relevant RAL numbers for the red and white markings we could carry a tin of each and would be willing to add way marking where appropriate as we go (Dulux or Crown references would also suffice)

Looking forward to your reply

Neil and Martin

We left Encamp on day 42, heading for the refugio de L’Illa and the high mountains again. The feel of these peaks is a little different from the previous high peaks as they don’t seem quite as formidable. However the climb was long and we walked through a conservation area called “Zone de Humid” which was a forest area and humid it certainly was, as well as being absolutely wick with flies that buzz around your ears and eyes. The only redeeming feature of today’s slog was the end and the newly built Refugio which is clean, not smelly and has bigger bunks with more room. Nobody has to sleep next to a “Stinky Pete”

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We had a good night’s sleep at Refugi Illia and the rain had cleared so we could set off in the sunshine at about 8.

We first went up a little, then down a lot and then up again even further and then down again (with some annoying uppy bits), to the Refuge – it was actually a long old day and we’re tired tonight.

Once again, it was the last hour or so that caught us out – even though our friend Brian warns about the ‘tortuous’ path as it works it’s way along the side of the valley to the Refuge. We crossed boulder fields, scree slopes (massive), and had to clamber over and down tree roots and rocky sections on the ‘path’.

The scenery has changed as well, the mountains have an almost Highland feel to them now except they are much higher of course. (And no midges 🙂)

All being well, this is our final Refugi – the mountains and the trail from here are mostly interspersed with villages and hotels.

We’ve generally had good experiences and every one is slightly different, (this one has dry toilets..), but we’ve probably had enough of them for now. (Maybe as a treat we will take Sara and Karen to one at some point in the future..)

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The path up from Encamp started off like a motorway as the GR11 shared the route with other local paths and actually other GRs. (Not used to this !)

But our path soon turned off and followed up the side of the river, climbing slowly but surely. Through the trees we could occasionally see the next range of mountains but it was close and windless and the flies were swarming around us like that character from Peanuts – so it was more of a head down and get through it sort of climb.

The last hour was better, out into the hills again as we made our way to the Refugio. And, very nice it is too – the best yet – and we have a room only for us so only ourselves to blame for the snoring and bad smells..

The weather closed in later this afternoon and it has rained all evening. Fingers crossed that it is clear again tomorrow as we have a long, high level day ahead of us through to the next refuge. (And we have both sent our waterproof trousers back home on the basis that we hadn’t needed them so far !)

And they’re off – boys heading on a bus journey to Toulouse before flying back this evening.

It’s been a great few days having them with us – good fun – and it’s certainly going to be quieter again now !

Me and Neil have used today to skip round to Encamp ready to go back into the mountains again tomorrow for 3 more stages and 2 more Refugio ‘overnight experiences’ – we will need a good sleep tonight !

Ed and Harry’s takeover here, for a brief overview of the past few days wandering around the mountains.

After a long and surprisingly easy journey up into the mountains we were ready to attack some big walks. We unloaded our dads bags into our own so they had an easier time, (M & N’s note – don’t quite remember this ??!), and set off. The first day mainly consisted of steep horrible tree routes, with minimal views. Not what we originally signed up for. Luckily, the ‘Areste’ suite waiting for us in the Hotel Areù didn’t disappoint, and we found a nice bar to spend the afternoon and evening.

Day 2 we made our way up towards the Refugio, which was a real downgrade from our previous sleeping arrangement. A night spent in Stinky Pete’s BO fog followed by a rubbish breakfast could’ve left us in bad spirits – but we were just happy to get some fresh air as we started the 3rd, and best, day of walking.

A huge ascent up led to some crazy lakes and great views, even when Harry decided to take us on a rather large detour onto GR11.1 (see attached very obvious pic of the sign).

A sharp and hard descent pulled us down into Arinsal, where beers and huge steaks were waiting for us.

Luckily the storms that Neil had been threatening us with for 3 days turned out to be completely inaccurate, and we experienced only lovely sunshine.

The last rest day in Arinsal has been exactly that, and was very much needed, and revolves around sitting around drinking coffee and sleeping primarily. We had a decent send off meal last night too – before leaving them to it and heading back home.

Fair play to the old guys, that walking lark is tough, and to say we’re both knackered after 4 days and they’re on almost day 40 now has given Harry and I some new found respect for our Dads. It’s been a great trip and one that we won’t be forgetting anytime soon!

Adios !

Ed and Harry

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Great day today (Monday) – a full on, proper day in the mountains. We left the Refugio and Stinky Pete at around 8am and headed up into the fresh mountain air.

After an hour or so, we rounded the corrie and far away still, could see the first glinting of the Refugio Balau. This is an iconic milestone along the GR11 – a fantastic location for a Bothy. It still took an hour or so to reach it though – and then time for our second breakfast. (Need to keep those boys fed !)

Then down first before a steep (very) climb up to the col – loose scree slopes and boulder fields – which is where we crossed over the border into Andorra. (Another big milestone 😎)

At this point, the boys were quite excited as they had got a 4G signal (!), so we left them up there for a few minutes on the basis they would soon catch us up on the descent. This traversed along the side of the mountain initially over big boulder fields and quite tricky in places.

Views were spectacular all day and no thunderstorms forming so clear and fine – the boys don’t even believe this is a regular thing here in the Pyrenees..!

Unbeknown to us at this point, we had taken the GR11.1 variant – so only when we got to near the bottom did we realise when the expected Refugi de Compedrosa turned out to be the Refugi del Pla de l’Estany😉. (All tracks lead down to Arinsal from here so no worries and we made it down to the hotel in about 7.5 hours.)

And another good thing – this is the first (and probably last), time we walked further than Brian suggests in the guide book ! All tired and sore though this evening – the 1800m descent at the end of the long day finished us off.

Fabulous day with the boys after leaving the Refugi Vallferrera and climbing to 2756m as we crossed into Andorra. Stopped at the Refugi de Baiau for some food before going over the Coll and tackling a very steep, tricky descent. Proper mountain scenery for Harry and Ed after a couple of days climbing through forest. They have really enjoyed the 3 days and we’ll be sad to see them go. Mind you, 3 days of listening to incessant drivel is enough for anyone 😁😁

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A later start this morning – the hotel did not even start serving breakfast until 9am☹️. (And dinner last night was also at 9pm – way too late for us, we were ready for bed by then !)

But a relatively steady climb through the forest along good tracks – still no bears – brought us up to the Refugio in the afternoon.

The boys are not too impressed with the Refugio (!), we thought we had scored a room for just the 4 of us but then at 10pm, another guy turns up – we named him Stinky Pete – to give the boys the full experience 😉

Tomorrow is a big day.. We climb another 1000m in the morning to reach our highest point yet and the col which is the crossing point into Andorra – before a long, long descent into Arinsal.