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We are going back up high today as we head to the Refugi Vallferrera. This will give the lads there first experience of a smelly mountain hut after walking through the forest. Tomorrow we head up to 2700m as we cross into Andorra so the views should be spectacular

On the route to Refugi Vallferrera -
There be bears in them thar woods…
Or – do Bears sh&t in these woods !? (Thanks to Dave for comment !)
Apparently, this is also an area where there are Pyrenean Brown Bears… (We didn’t tell the boys this before they came out obviously..)
They were re-introduced some years ago and depends what you read, but there could now be around 40-50 spread over a huge area including into France.
Anyway, despite fully expecting to come across one or two at least today, we didn’t see anything….

What we saw… 
What we were expecting to see !? (thanks Harry..) -
Day 37 Areu
w3w : ///dispenser.smokers.spanner
Days 35 and 36 were spent at Tavascan, where we met up with the boys yesterday evening.
Tavascan is a another (small), beautiful village complete with medieval bridge and church – and a great taxi guy, Ivan, who without any English, recognised and collected the boys off the bus at Llavorsi seamlessly.
The valley has a lot of history as an escape route from the Nazis during the Second World War – so quite interesting as well.

The old bridge – was the only crossing until ~60 years ago Then off on the trail this morning with the 4 of us, not just 2, really good for a change 😎

Here we go.. The inevitable climb was in the trees and relatively straight forward even if 1000m up. Short walk then across the col with great views both ways before a long descent back down through the trees, eventually ending up here in Areu.
At the top of the col – heading back into the forest for big descent.
(Watch until end..!)We might need to have some adjustments in rucsac weight distribution tomorrow as well – slow those boys down a bit !


Then this afternoon, we’ve been at the river, not quite deep enough to swim but still good to lie in the rapids and cool off.
Tomorrow, we are up at the Refugio so don’t expect to be in contact. (This could be a major test for the boys to be without wifi for a day or 2!)
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They made it…

All happy – let’s see what they look like tomorrow! -
Reinforcements En Route…
A quick blog takeover by the youngsters sat in the airport, passing the time the only way they know how…


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Day 34 La Guingueta d’Aneu
So Day 33 was a rest day in Espot. Something has gone wrong with our planning because there wasn’t even a little Fiesta going on ?!

Espot 
Old bridge at the top of the village Anyway, we walked around the village, saw the sights and 15 minutes later we ended up in a bar…
Today we walked out of Espot and a relatively short hop here past the hamlet of Joue to La Guinueta d’Aneu. (Kelly holiday from 2018 stayed further up this same valley. )

Coming out of Espot 
Sara remembers this particular road (!) but the path stays higher for most of the way 
La Guingueta d’Enau – another tough place to visit The hills are a bit more rolling again now until we make the high level crossing into Andorra.

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Day 32 Espot
Another great day, these last few days have been absolutely what we were hoping for.
Carnage at the Refugio this morning – it was completely full and just too many people (90 ?), trying to all get breakfast, (only biscuits and jam here ☹️) and then pack up and get going in a small space..
And there was only 4 toilets… (shared)
Leaving the Refugio Then across the dam and up again, crossing by more beautiful lakes before climbing up to our highest point yet.

The col at the end of the lake is where are heading 

From the col Back down then to Estany de Saint Maurici and Espot which is where we first saw a GR11 sign on a Kelly family holiday in 2018 – and wondered, what’s that then…?!
(To be honest, I think it was only me that thought that !)

Estany de Saint Maurici -

2600m. Highest so far. It might be blue sky but the wind was cool and you could tell you were at altitude 
This way. These are the way finder marks we have to look for which are on rocks, trees and posts. Across the boulder fields you need to rely on mini cairns (one on top of this rock although not necessary) as the markers aren’t always visible Set off from the Refugio Colomers this morning which was packed as it was a Spanish holiday weekend. There are some strange smells in these Refugio’s as some of the guests aren’t as capable when it comes to using soap. Fortunately we were ok in our bunk room of 14. We had an easy 600m climb this morning with some spectacular views and we reached 2600m for the first time. The descent was pretty good for a change and we walked through a really popular area on the way to Espot with a stunning waterfall. Couple of beers and a bite to eat before checking in to our casa/hotel with our own bathroom and proper towels. Luxury 😁😁
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A word about Brian..
The only real guidebook for the GR11 is by a British guy called Brian Johnson, translated into several languages. Everyone along the trail uses this guide and nearly everyone complains that the timings are too short and why did he not mention eg that sheer ravine or the steep uphill climb at the end of the day, etc.
He also likes to suggest additional routes, ‘from this col you can pop up to the summit of Mt Stillalongwayup, 30 minutes up, 15 down’, but we have not yet fallen for that one !
Only yesterday he proposed a scenic alternative, ‘if you have time’ – another 4 hours, I don’t think so Brian !!
So a figure of some infamy around these parts and not always a popular chap.. We often groan along the way – what ARE you talking about Brian !!? (Or words to that effect.)
Anyway, we can’t complain too much, the guy has sadly passed away and he has climbed his last climb up the heavenly staircase… (25 minutes, no technical difficulty, no water points… 😉)
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Day 31 Refugio Conales
w3w///backpackers.constrained.merry
Last night there was 14 in our dormitory – all mixed – but I slept right next to a French guy, (very pleasant at dinner but who basically snored all night). I am hoping for a quieter night tonight or at least one when I can start snoring first.. The earplugs have been worth bringing !

Sleeping arrangements! 
Leaving the Refugio The walking was good today, the first climb was in the shade – always helpful – and the scenery was again spectacular. We then walked along and between the lakes and up 2 more cols before descending down to the Refugio.

And I saw my first marmot – Neil saw one a few days ago but this one ran right in front of me – but too quick to take a photo of course..

We even had a bit more time today and managed a paddle in the stream just up from the refuge.

Outside the Refugio – the only possible signal is on the helipad – people doing the 3G dance